Open Climbing Routes and Conquest

lan participated to opening of 45 climbing routes. Below are show some characteristics of this routes


Route                        Partners            Difficult and Lenght       Style                    Pitches    Year


1) Pioneiros        Alexandre Altmann        5  Vsup  A0  80m       classic                       3         1996
                         Rute Bersh, Iubere Dutra                                     



2) Léo Landz      Alexandre Altmann              VI E2  50m            classic                   1 or 2      1997
                         Rute Bersh
                                             Alan on Léo Lanz route



3) Apeladinha    Alexandre Altmann                   VI 12m               sport                      1         1997



4) Saci Bebere   Alexandre Altmann     5  VI  A2 80m        aid and classic                 3          2001



5) Início do Fim   Iubere, Altmann             5  VIsup E2 70m         classic                      2        2002
                         Marion, Fabrício


6) Caminho        Eduardo Jesus             5   VI   E2  65m          trad/classic                 3         2004
     do Bem
Alexandre Altmann on last pitch of the Caminho do Bem route


7) Energia Racional      Eduardo Jesus         ???  25m                  sport              1            2004       
                                     Tiago Mohr


8) É isso que          Altmann                    5  VIsup  E3  50m        classic/trad       1             2005
  o Véio Gosta
Altmann open the new route É isso que o Véio Gosta


9) Papai Noel           Eduardo Jesus          V E1 10m                       sport              1            2005
Alan on Papai Noel route


10) Reflexo da Lua         Solo            7b   E1  10m                     sport             1                 2005


11) Paraísos Artificiais   Altmann      4sup   A2+   E2  50m      aid/classic      1                   2005
Creativity in aid placements in Paraisos Artificiais route


12) Fazendo Careta        Mariana Ferraz           4  Vsup  E3  50m            classic      1        2006
Alan of the conquest of Fazendo Careta route


13) Tapa na Pantera              Solo             Vsup   15m         top rope                    1             2006

14) Direita do Tapa                Solo              V        15m       top rope/high ball        1              2006


15) Esquerda do Tapa       Frederico         VI       15m          top rope/high ball        1              2006
                                        Almeida


16) Cateto Oposto            Fred e Fabinho  7b      15m         top rope                     1               2006


17) Fenda do Ninho         Diego Carrion     VI       15m         trad                            1               2006




                         Diego Carion in top rope on the Fenda do Ninho route


18) Buião     Paulo, Sérgio        6   VI   E2   100m                   classic             3              2006
                      Fred
Alan in the conquest of the Buião route


19) Filho Feio              Paulinho, Fred         7a   30m                        esport            1             2006


20) Via dos Gomos    Fabinho Machado    III  IVsup  E3  180m           classic          4            2006
Gomos Mountain in Serra do Pote hills, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

21) Sulco da               Fred                 5   Vsup   E3   110m                 classic               3          2006
       Patada


                           Alan in the conquest of the second pitch of Sulco da Patada route


22) De mala e cuia            Fred            III   7a    E3    105m              classic            3                2007


         Frederico Almeida in the conquest of the De Mala e Cuia route


23) Sombra e Água de Coco       Serginho        III   E2   40m         classic             1          2006


24) Metamorfismo          Fabinho Machado   7b   E2   45m       trad/hammerless     1         2007

Line of Metamorfismo route

25) Equinócio           Fabinho Machado       8?   E4  85m       classic/hammerless    3      2007

26) Viva Nossa        Fabinho Machado          6sup   E3  40m     trad/hammerless       1     2007  
       Vontade

27) Chaminé           Fabinho Machado         6sup    E3    75m     classic/hammerless   2    2007
       Tira o Boné
Routes of the Parede das Fendas wall. For more details, see www.caminhosmontanhismo.blogspot.com

28) Mundo dos Insetos     Solo             A2    15m                  aid/hammerless       1             2008

29) Caetano Tavares       Bernardo      IV  VI  E2/3 60m     classic/hammerless     2              2009
       Valent                         Tavares

30) Como é Duro        Solo                V  15m                          top rope                  1             2009
   Trabalhar

31) Guerra dos          Monique       V  E3  15m                      trad/high ball              1              2009
    Farrapos
Alan in the conquest of Guerra dos Farrapos route

32) Na manha da      Bernardo      V   15m                           top rope                      1               2009
       Aranha

33) Velho Veio         Monique        7a/b  15m                       top rope                       1               2009

34) Cruxificado        Monique         Vsup   15m                    top rope                       1               2009

35) Mamica de        Monique          7a    15m                       top rope                       1               2009
      Cadela    
Alan on the Mamica de Cadela route and Monique in the Cristaleira route

36) Vai mas Volta   Monique          IV   15m                         top rope                       1               2009

37) Cristaleira         Bernardo         III    15m                          top rope                       1               2009

Topos of the Campo Escola Monte Verde. More details in http://www.caminhosmontanhismo.blogspot.com/

38) Bixo Grilo          Bernardo        VI   15m                          top rope                        1               2009

39) Bicho Galho     Bernardo        VIsup  15m                     top rope                         1               2009

40) Engolindo Sapo  Bernardo     VIsup  15m                    top rope                         1               2009
Monique in Vai mas Volta route

41) Deus Ajuda Quem  Monique     IVsup    13m            trad/hammerless              1               2009
     Cedo Madruga

42) Fora Sítio das       Monique       III   45m                   classic                                 1               2009
     Bromélias

43) Bicho Cristal        Monique       III   15m                    trad/high ball                      1                2009

44) Interiorize-se        Monique      Vsup  15m               sport                                    1               2009

45) No crepúsculo      Monique      VI        15m             top rope                                1               2009

Chronological Climbing – Major Places Climbed (2008 - 2010)


SPORT CLIMB IN THE SERRA DO CIPÓ, MINAS GERAIS STATE
Alan in a sport rote in the Serra do Cipó

 
Alan in a sport rote in the Serra do Cipó 


TRADITIONAL CLIMB IN BAGÉ, RIO GRANDE DO SUL STATE


Alan and Bere in a summith of Bagé rocks



Alan in the Esfinge rote



Rudha e Alan in the Pico do Morcego summith

BOULDERS


Rio das Ostras



Rio das Ostras 



High Ball in Macaé

Basic Course of Rock Climbing

In 2005, with Eduardo Jesus, Alan makes a Basic Course of Rock Climbing. Below are showing the program and some pictures of these courses.

1 - BRIEF HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING AND ROCK CLIMBING

2 - TYPES, STYLES AND TECHNIQUES IN ROCK CLIMBING
2.1 - Indoor
2.2 - Bouldering
2.3 - Rock Climb
2.3.1 - Free Climb
2.3.2 - Aid Climb
2.3.3 - Big Wall

3 - ROCK CLIMB EQUIPMENT
3.1 - Ropes
3.1.1 - Ropes Types
3.1.2 - Diameters, lengths and use
3.1.3 - Handling and care
3.2 - Belay Devices
3.2.1 - Figure 8
3.2.2 - ATC (BD) and Verso (PETZL) 
3.2.3 - Reverso (PETZL) and ATC Guide (BD)
3.2.4 - GriGri (PETZL)
3.3 - Harnesses
3.4 - Carabiner
3.5 - Slings
3.6 - Acessory Cords
3.7 - Quick Draw
3.8 - Helmet
3.9 - Climbing Shoes

4 - KNOTS
4.1 - Overhabd Loop

4.2 - Dobble Fisherman
4.3 - Figure Eight (on a bight and rewoven)

4.4 - Water Knot
4.5 - Munter Hitch (UIAA)
4.6 - Clove Hitch
4.7 - Girth Hitch

4.8 - Prusik
4.9 - Marchand and Klemheist

4.10 - Butterfly


5 - VERTICAL TECHNIQUES
5.1 - Rappel
5.2 - Rope Ascent


6 - ANCHORS, EQUALIZATION AND FALL FACTOR
6.1 - Equalization
6.1.1 - Two-Point Equalization
6.1.2 - Tri-Point Equalization
6.2 - Triangle of Forces
6.3 - Fall Factor


7 - RATING SYSTEMS
7.1 - Boldering Rating System
7.2 - Aid Climb Rating System
7.3 - Free Climb Rating System


8 - IN THE ROCK
8.1 - Equipment Organization
8.2 - Leading
8.3 - Alternating Progression
8.4 - French Style
8.5 - Top Rope
8.6 - Tips


9 - CLIMBING TECHNIQUES


10 - ACCIDENT PREVENTION
10.1 - Programming Climbing
10.2 - Ground Instability
10.3 - Personal Limit
10.4 - Comunication
10.5 - Auto-Belay
10.6 - Check Equipment


11- CLIMBING ETHICS


12 - TRACE NO LEAVES


REALIZED COURSES

Go to bouldering class


Intructions about anchors and triangle of forces


Practice Rapel


Mauro in your first lead. And your first fall...


Sport Climb class


Alternated Progression class


Top Rope class


Pico da Canastra mountain
 
A beautiful finish day

PARTICIPANT COMMENT


Chronological Climbing – Beginning Ice Climbing and Glaciers Travel (2008)

In 2008 I had an opportunity to go to Patagonia and realize a dream: Ice Climbing and Ice Mountaineering. Were 48 incredible days I climbed in two major places: Bariloche and El Chaltén region. Below show a sort description for this travel.

Alan in Torre Glacier


ARRIVAL - San Carlos de Bariloche
Rock Climbing in Cerro Catedral Region (2388 m), in Agujas Frey (Frey Needles).
Trekking in alpine environment.

Refúgio Frey region. In the bottom see Aguja Piramidal.

Alan in the summit of the Aguja Frey

Campanile Esloveno needle.

Alan in the Plantitas Denigrentes route, Aguja Frey.

Mercedes Saores in third pitch of the Aguja Principal



CERRO TRONADOR MOUNTAIN (3478 m)
After the acclimatise, we go to an extinct vulcan with ice climbing and glacier travel.

In the botton, Cerro Tronador (left) and Cerro Pontiagudo (right) mountains.

Glacier in Cerro Tronador

Alan, Gabriel and Julio in the climb of the Cerro Tronador


Gabriel and Alan near the summit of Cerro Tronador


Alan, Gabriel and Julio in the descent of the Cerro Tronador


EL CHALTÉN REGION
El Chaltén is a town in Patagonia were are located some of most famous mountain of the world, the Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy. There, I stay 15 days make trekking and glacier travel, but unfortunately I didn’t climbs.

Aguja De la "S', Aguja Saint Exupery , Aguja Rafael Juarez, Aguja Poincenot and Cerro Fitz Roy.

Cerro Nato, Cerro Adela and Cerro Torre form the Torre Glacier.

Alan and Julio entering in Torre Glacier

Folded rocks generated by strain processes of Andes colision.

Fred and Alan in Nipponinos, Torre Glacier

Julio in Zip-line over Torre river.

Cerro Torre mountain

Moulins generated by diference in the internal and external pressure of the Torre glacier


Alan in Torre glacier

View of the Torre Glacier from Fitz Roy ridge.

Glaciers striations in rock basement of the Torre glacier. This features are generated by ice flow.





Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)