Wharepapa South
Wharepapa South
Wharepapa South
Whanganui Bay
Whanganui Bay
Paynes Ford - Golden Bay
Franz Josef Glacier
Coronet Peak
Open Climbing Routes and Conquest
lan participated to opening of 45 climbing routes. Below are show some characteristics of this routes
Route Partners Difficult and Lenght Style Pitches Year
Rute Bersh, Iubere Dutra
Rute Bersh
Alan on Léo Lanz route
Marion, Fabrício
6) Caminho Eduardo Jesus 5 VI E2 65m trad/classic 3 2004
do Bem
Alexandre Altmann on last pitch of the Caminho do Bem route
7) Energia Racional Eduardo Jesus ??? 25m sport 1 2004
Tiago Mohr
8) É isso que Altmann 5 VIsup E3 50m classic/trad 1 2005
o Véio Gosta
Altmann open the new route É isso que o Véio Gosta
9) Papai Noel Eduardo Jesus V E1 10m sport 1 2005
Alan on Papai Noel route
10) Reflexo da Lua Solo 7b E1 10m sport 1 2005
11) Paraísos Artificiais Altmann 4sup A2+ E2 50m aid/classic 1 2005
Creativity in aid placements in Paraisos Artificiais route
12) Fazendo Careta Mariana Ferraz 4 Vsup E3 50m classic 1 2006
Alan of the conquest of Fazendo Careta route
13) Tapa na Pantera Solo Vsup 15m top rope 1 2006
14) Direita do Tapa Solo V 15m top rope/high ball 1 2006
15) Esquerda do Tapa Frederico VI 15m top rope/high ball 1 2006
Almeida
16) Cateto Oposto Fred e Fabinho 7b 15m top rope 1 2006
17) Fenda do Ninho Diego Carrion VI 15m trad 1 2006
Diego Carion in top rope on the Fenda do Ninho route
18) Buião Paulo, Sérgio 6 VI E2 100m classic 3 2006
Fred
Alan in the conquest of the Buião route
19) Filho Feio Paulinho, Fred 7a 30m esport 1 2006
20) Via dos Gomos Fabinho Machado III IVsup E3 180m classic 4 2006
Gomos Mountain in Serra do Pote hills, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
21) Sulco da Fred 5 Vsup E3 110m classic 3 2006
Patada
22) De mala e cuia Fred III 7a E3 105m classic 3 2007
23) Sombra e Água de Coco Serginho III E2 40m classic 1 2006
24) Metamorfismo Fabinho Machado 7b E2 45m trad/hammerless 1 2007
Line of Metamorfismo route
25) Equinócio Fabinho Machado 8? E4 85m classic/hammerless 3 2007
26) Viva Nossa Fabinho Machado 6sup E3 40m trad/hammerless 1 2007
Vontade
27) Chaminé Fabinho Machado 6sup E3 75m classic/hammerless 2 2007
Tira o Boné
Routes of the Parede das Fendas wall. For more details, see www.caminhosmontanhismo.blogspot.com
28) Mundo dos Insetos Solo A2 15m aid/hammerless 1 2008
29) Caetano Tavares Bernardo IV VI E2/3 60m classic/hammerless 2 2009
Valent Tavares
30) Como é Duro Solo V 15m top rope 1 2009
Trabalhar
31) Guerra dos Monique V E3 15m trad/high ball 1 2009
Farrapos
Alan in the conquest of Guerra dos Farrapos route
32) Na manha da Bernardo V 15m top rope 1 2009
Aranha
33) Velho Veio Monique 7a/b 15m top rope 1 2009
34) Cruxificado Monique Vsup 15m top rope 1 2009
35) Mamica de Monique 7a 15m top rope 1 2009
Cadela
Alan on the Mamica de Cadela route and Monique in the Cristaleira route
36) Vai mas Volta Monique IV 15m top rope 1 2009
37) Cristaleira Bernardo III 15m top rope 1 2009
Topos of the Campo Escola Monte Verde. More details in http://www.caminhosmontanhismo.blogspot.com/
38) Bixo Grilo Bernardo VI 15m top rope 1 2009
39) Bicho Galho Bernardo VIsup 15m top rope 1 2009
40) Engolindo Sapo Bernardo VIsup 15m top rope 1 2009
Monique in Vai mas Volta route
41) Deus Ajuda Quem Monique IVsup 13m trad/hammerless 1 2009
Cedo Madruga
42) Fora Sítio das Monique III 45m classic 1 2009
Bromélias
43) Bicho Cristal Monique III 15m trad/high ball 1 2009
44) Interiorize-se Monique Vsup 15m sport 1 2009
45) No crepúsculo Monique VI 15m top rope 1 2009
Chronological Climbing – Major Places Climbed (2008 - 2010)
SPORT CLIMB IN THE SERRA DO CIPÓ, MINAS GERAIS STATE
Alan in a sport rote in the Serra do Cipó
Alan in a sport rote in the Serra do Cipó
TRADITIONAL CLIMB IN BAGÉ, RIO GRANDE DO SUL STATE
Alan and Bere in a summith of Bagé rocks
Alan in the Esfinge rote
Rudha e Alan in the Pico do Morcego summith
BOULDERS
Rio das Ostras
Rio das Ostras
High Ball in Macaé
Basic Course of Rock Climbing
In 2005, with Eduardo Jesus, Alan makes a Basic Course of Rock Climbing. Below are showing the program and some pictures of these courses.
1 - BRIEF HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING AND ROCK CLIMBING
2 - TYPES, STYLES AND TECHNIQUES IN ROCK CLIMBING
2.1 - Indoor
2.2 - Bouldering
2.3 - Rock Climb
2.3.1 - Free Climb
2.3.2 - Aid Climb
2.3.3 - Big Wall
3 - ROCK CLIMB EQUIPMENT
3.1 - Ropes
3.1.1 - Ropes Types
3.1.2 - Diameters, lengths and use
3.1.3 - Handling and care
3.2 - Belay Devices
3.2.1 - Figure 8
3.2.2 - ATC (BD) and Verso (PETZL)
3.2.3 - Reverso (PETZL) and ATC Guide (BD)
3.2.4 - GriGri (PETZL)
3.3 - Harnesses
3.4 - Carabiner
3.5 - Slings
3.6 - Acessory Cords
3.7 - Quick Draw
3.8 - Helmet
3.9 - Climbing Shoes
4 - KNOTS
4.1 - Overhabd Loop
4.2 - Dobble Fisherman
4.3 - Figure Eight (on a bight and rewoven)
4.4 - Water Knot
4.5 - Munter Hitch (UIAA)
4.6 - Clove Hitch
4.7 - Girth Hitch
4.8 - Prusik
4.9 - Marchand and Klemheist
4.10 - Butterfly
5 - VERTICAL TECHNIQUES
5.1 - Rappel
5.2 - Rope Ascent
6 - ANCHORS, EQUALIZATION AND FALL FACTOR
1 - BRIEF HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING AND ROCK CLIMBING
2 - TYPES, STYLES AND TECHNIQUES IN ROCK CLIMBING
2.1 - Indoor
2.2 - Bouldering
2.3 - Rock Climb
2.3.1 - Free Climb
2.3.2 - Aid Climb
2.3.3 - Big Wall
3 - ROCK CLIMB EQUIPMENT
3.1 - Ropes
3.1.1 - Ropes Types
3.1.2 - Diameters, lengths and use
3.1.3 - Handling and care
3.2 - Belay Devices
3.2.1 - Figure 8
3.2.2 - ATC (BD) and Verso (PETZL)
3.2.3 - Reverso (PETZL) and ATC Guide (BD)
3.2.4 - GriGri (PETZL)
3.3 - Harnesses
3.4 - Carabiner
3.5 - Slings
3.6 - Acessory Cords
3.7 - Quick Draw
3.8 - Helmet
3.9 - Climbing Shoes
4 - KNOTS
4.1 - Overhabd Loop
4.2 - Dobble Fisherman
4.3 - Figure Eight (on a bight and rewoven)
4.4 - Water Knot
4.5 - Munter Hitch (UIAA)
4.6 - Clove Hitch
4.7 - Girth Hitch
4.8 - Prusik
4.9 - Marchand and Klemheist
4.10 - Butterfly
5 - VERTICAL TECHNIQUES
5.1 - Rappel
5.2 - Rope Ascent
6 - ANCHORS, EQUALIZATION AND FALL FACTOR
6.1 - Equalization
6.1.1 - Two-Point Equalization
6.1.2 - Tri-Point Equalization
6.2 - Triangle of Forces
6.3 - Fall Factor
7 - RATING SYSTEMS
7.1 - Boldering Rating System
7.2 - Aid Climb Rating System
7.3 - Free Climb Rating System
8 - IN THE ROCK
8.1 - Equipment Organization
8.2 - Leading
8.3 - Alternating Progression
8.4 - French Style
8.5 - Top Rope
8.6 - Tips
9 - CLIMBING TECHNIQUES
10 - ACCIDENT PREVENTION
10.1 - Programming Climbing
10.2 - Ground Instability
10.3 - Personal Limit
10.4 - Comunication
10.5 - Auto-Belay
10.6 - Check Equipment
11- CLIMBING ETHICS
12 - TRACE NO LEAVES
REALIZED COURSES
Go to bouldering class
Intructions about anchors and triangle of forces
Practice Rapel
Mauro in your first lead. And your first fall...
Sport Climb class
Alternated Progression class
Top Rope class
Pico da Canastra mountain
A beautiful finish day
PARTICIPANT COMMENT
Chronological Climbing – Beginning Ice Climbing and Glaciers Travel (2008)
In 2008 I had an opportunity to go to Patagonia and realize a dream: Ice Climbing and Ice Mountaineering. Were 48 incredible days I climbed in two major places: Bariloche and El Chaltén region. Below show a sort description for this travel.
Alan in Torre Glacier
ARRIVAL - San Carlos de Bariloche
Rock Climbing in Cerro Catedral Region (2388 m), in Agujas Frey (Frey Needles).
Trekking in alpine environment.
Refúgio Frey region. In the bottom see Aguja Piramidal.
Alan in the summit of the Aguja Frey
Campanile Esloveno needle.
Alan in the Plantitas Denigrentes route, Aguja Frey.
Mercedes Saores in third pitch of the Aguja Principal
CERRO TRONADOR MOUNTAIN (3478 m)
After the acclimatise, we go to an extinct vulcan with ice climbing and glacier travel.
In the botton, Cerro Tronador (left) and Cerro Pontiagudo (right) mountains.
Glacier in Cerro Tronador
Alan, Gabriel and Julio in the climb of the Cerro Tronador
Gabriel and Alan near the summit of Cerro Tronador
Alan, Gabriel and Julio in the descent of the Cerro Tronador
El Chaltén is a town in Patagonia were are located some of most famous mountain of the world, the Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy. There, I stay 15 days make trekking and glacier travel, but unfortunately I didn’t climbs.
Aguja De la "S', Aguja Saint Exupery , Aguja Rafael Juarez, Aguja Poincenot and Cerro Fitz Roy.
Cerro Nato, Cerro Adela and Cerro Torre form the Torre Glacier.
Alan and Julio entering in Torre Glacier
Folded rocks generated by strain processes of Andes colision.
Fred and Alan in Nipponinos, Torre Glacier
Julio in Zip-line over Torre river.
Cerro Torre mountain
Moulins generated by diference in the internal and external pressure of the Torre glacier
Alan in Torre glacier
View of the Torre Glacier from Fitz Roy ridge.
Glaciers striations in rock basement of the Torre glacier. This features are generated by ice flow.
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